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My Phalaenopsis story Part 2

#1 User is offline   a-z0-9 

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 03:34 PM

I am again attempting to grow Phalaenopsis again. I have met with dismal failure in the past.
(http://www.greencult...__1#entry303970).

Two of them have died.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mLKLaodVDMA/Uoh7A4WNVtI/AAAAAAAAA4s/5yc7DVN5tGg/s640/20131116_181341.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vzZi_V8bGkg/Uoh7A7md4dI/AAAAAAAAA4s/4xGrTkBI7nY/s640/20131116_181350.jpg

I believe it is due to over watering. I know that it must it must be kept moist, but how much is too much when it comes
to moisture in the moss?

My new plant is shown below:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qNEgoqcohYY/Uoh7A2BXByI/AAAAAAAAA4s/_fPChFzJnZQ/s640/20131116_181814.jpg

Any tips to keep this beautiful orchid alive?

Thanks in advance!
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#2 User is offline   Lionel Teng 

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 06:35 PM

removed every spaghmum moss from the package of the phal you bought from the store as it will kill the roots.

Pot it with charcoal that are much more permeable then spaghmum moss and top and layer of spaghmum moss !.

that what I can share with you !. and lastly do water as per needed for your phal like when the layer of spaghmum moss is approach dried.
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#3 User is offline   digitalgate 

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 07:35 PM

Another easier way is just remove the pot
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#4 User is offline   Lionel Teng 

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  • Location:Toa Payoh Kim Keat Avenue block 194 #03-398
  • Interests:Plants that I started growing:

    Herbs:
    Climbing Gyruna, Rose Catcus, Cat's Whisker
    Plantain Herbs, Chinese Knotweed, Patchouli

    Culinary Herbs:
    Thyme, Oregano, Basil, Rosemary, Bay Leaf and Lemon Myrtle, Mint including Bergamot Mint, Tashkent Mint Corn Mint.Mexican Tarragon

    Currently Growing: Orchid Both Sun Loving and Shade Loving

    Including:

    Hybird
    LC,Laeliocattleya BLC, Brassolaeliocattleya

    Brassavola Codrata

    and also Jewel Orchids including Macodes Lowii,
    Anoectochilus Formansanus and also Roxburghii

Posted 18 November 2013 - 10:42 PM

the previous phals that i saw in your photo can be salvage by pruning away the rotten roots and treat it with physan before potted with charcoal and spaghmum moss !.
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#5 User is offline   Chatbud 

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 11:11 PM

Actually all these TW phals were watered to death at the shop already. Rot has already started setting in for many of them.
Rescue is very very difficult and tedious.

Another thing is from my own experience: placing it at the parapet wall is a no no. Too hot already. They can't take it.

You go WL take a look. The moment out from container immediately push into their phal rooms with the huge turbine fans blowing at the rooms 24/7 to keep the phals as cool as possible. Completely keep out of heat until they are pushed out to retailers.

Did you buy yours at ikea?
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#6 User is offline   Chatbud 

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 11:26 PM

Another thing I learnt from here and also from my own growing observation.

Phal is a very thirsty orchid. It wants to drink 24/7 that's why in TW they pot in moss cos it retains water easily (also lighter for shipment).

You can only repot this to another media (say charcoal or wood bark) when there are substantial healthy roots growing.

If you repot it immediately to another media after the flowers fell/spike got cut w/o any green root tips, the leaves will all start to shrivel.
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#7 User is offline   a-z0-9 

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 09:52 AM

View PostChatbud, on 18 November 2013 - 11:11 PM, said:

Actually all these TW phals were watered to death at the shop already. Rot has already started setting in for many of them.
Rescue is very very difficult and tedious.

Another thing is from my own experience: placing it at the parapet wall is a no no. Too hot already. They can't take it.

You go WL take a look. The moment out from container immediately push into their phal rooms with the huge turbine fans blowing at the rooms 24/7 to keep the phals as cool as possible. Completely keep out of heat until they are pushed out to retailers.

Did you buy yours at ikea?


Bought it at the nursery next to AMK library.


What I am going to do next is by combining the collective wisdom of users from Green Culture:

1. Remove the transparent container and place it in my green pot.
2. Put charcoal to surround the moss.
3. Make sure the moss is moist and and not wet. In my situation I will switch from watering every 2 days to every week.
4. Hunt for place that is not too hot but offers shaded light.

Feel free to correct or add more points!

Thanks!
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#8 User is offline   boonboon 

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 01:20 PM

View Posta-z0-9, on 19 November 2013 - 09:52 AM, said:

Bought it at the nursery next to AMK library.


What I am going to do next is by combining the collective wisdom of users from Green Culture:

1. Remove the transparent container and place it in my green pot.
2. Put charcoal to surround the moss.
3. Make sure the moss is moist and and not wet. In my situation I will switch from watering every 2 days to every week.
4. Hunt for place that is not too hot but offers shaded light.

Feel free to correct or add more points!

Thanks!

1. OK
2. No use putting charocal surrounding the moss as the plant will still be suffering from root rots and it is very difficult to control watering when it is potted in moss. You need to remove all the moss from the plant. Yes. I know it can be daunting. But that is an important move to make if you would like to grow them successfully. After removing the moss, pot it in a pot that is just large enough to contain its roots. Fill the bottom half of the pot with charcoal and topped up with moss.
3. Usually I will only water when the moss has turned dry as an indicator to when to water it again.
4. This step is the most important as Chatbud has rightfully pointed out. Our corridors are too sunny for the plant. These hybrid phalaenopsis can take low humidity as the leaves are thick. Thus they are suitable to grow in apartments. Does your corridor has morning or afternoon sun? It is best to hang them in a filtered area so that the leaves can droop the the edge of the pot without touching the parapet wall. I know this could be challenging along corridors. Nov - Jan are the best period to repot your orchids due to the monsoon season. Seize the day!!! :flowers:/>
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#9 User is offline   drektster 

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 06:22 PM

just put in a container with leica clay pallet. fill half container with water. or simply punch a hole at middle of container to prevent over watering. my phal rebloom twice a year. dun even need to fertilze the thing. but it does needs some sunlight, BTW first rebloom takes longer.
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#10 User is offline   bukitimah 

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 08:32 AM

Wow, I bought 2 pot from Song 2 weeks ago and they are still in the plastic pots and the moss that came with them. Do I need to do all these now or wait?

I place them outdoor in my shaded patio. So far they still look the same. That is what I saw being displayed at Somg.
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#11 User is offline   Dennis The Menace 

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 10:09 AM

View Postbukitimah, on 16 April 2014 - 08:32 AM, said:

Wow, I bought 2 pot from Song 2 weeks ago and they are still in the plastic pots and the moss that came with them. Do I need to do all these now or wait?

I place them outdoor in my shaded patio. So far they still look the same. That is what I saw being displayed at Somg.


If the flower are still in bloom, I would cut open the transparent plastic pot this helps to keep the moss drier and hopefully prevent rot to the roots meanwhile.

Once the bloom has wilted, I highly recommend you change media. Personally I find that it's not easy managing watering, using the original compress moss that comes with these TW Phal, the problem is basically the difficult in getting to the point where it's moist but not wet. Rot usually follow once the moss gets too wet and starts to drown the roots.
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#12 User is offline   drektster 

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 08:48 PM

View PostDennis The Menace, on 16 April 2014 - 10:09 AM, said:

If the flower are still in bloom, I would cut open the transparent plastic pot this helps to keep the moss drier and hopefully prevent rot to the roots meanwhile.

Once the bloom has wilted, I highly recommend you change media. Personally I find that it's not easy managing watering, using the original compress moss that comes with these TW Phal, the problem is basically the difficult in getting to the point where it's moist but not wet. Rot usually follow once the moss gets too wet and starts to drown the roots.



i dunnoe leh, the roots can sometimes grow submerge in water. for me i learn that you dun actually need to fertilize the plant so much unless its in full sun.
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#13 User is offline   Dennis The Menace 

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 04:31 PM

View Postdrektster, on 16 April 2014 - 08:48 PM, said:

i dunnoe leh, the roots can sometimes grow submerge in water. for me i learn that you dun actually need to fertilize the plant so much unless its in full sun.


Yes, roots can grow in water but the water must be oxygenated or the roots have other source where it can tap oxygen (like mixing H2O2 in your water or have part of your root expose to air) . It's the same with Hydroponic "Water Culture" method, you need to put an aerator into the water to keep the water oxygenated or else the root will literally drown.

The problem with the tightly packed moss that comes with the CNY Phal is that, once you over water it it'll get water logged and that water that is trap inside is close to impossible to flush even if you water frequently (especially the water in the core of the moss ball). The water get stale (no oxygen) and since it's water log and the roots have no other source of O2 it dies and rots.
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#14 User is offline   Dennis The Menace 

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 05:44 PM

View Postdrektster, on 20 November 2013 - 06:22 PM, said:

just put in a container with leica clay pallet. fill half container with water. or simply punch a hole at middle of container to prevent over watering. my phal rebloom twice a year. dun even need to fertilze the thing. but it does needs some sunlight, BTW first rebloom takes longer.


With reference to this, it's also a kind of hydroponics method. The LECA draws the water up along it's surface and reaches the roots packed in LECA above the water line. As the LECA has a lot of space in between each ball, there is a lot of space where the roots can take oxygen form, so it will work.

Actually for my Tolumnia project, I probably will want to grow some of them in this method. :)/>
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#15 User is offline   drektster 

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 01:40 PM

View PostDennis The Menace, on 17 April 2014 - 05:44 PM, said:

With reference to this, it's also a kind of hydroponics method. The LECA draws the water up along it's surface and reaches the roots packed in LECA above the water line. As the LECA has a lot of space in between each ball, there is a lot of space where the roots can take oxygen form, so it will work.

Actually for my Tolumnia project, I probably will want to grow some of them in this method. :)/>/>


i used to put such plant on a bottle of water(never change and still) the roots grow in the water without rot.
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#16 User is offline   Dennis The Menace 

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Posted 28 April 2014 - 04:33 PM

View Postdrektster, on 25 April 2014 - 01:40 PM, said:

i used to put such plant on a bottle of water(never change and still) the roots grow in the water without rot.


I won't pretend to know everything regarding this, and I believe you when you tell me that you're successfull in doing this. The interesting point for me is to know why it works. Nature is very interesting and sometimes beyond comprehension of my little mind. Sometimes I'll think I have figure something out and it throws us a curve ball and crush all my assumptions. :)/> But that's how we learn I guess.

When I try out the hydroponic method, I will also try a "just water" setup too. Let's see how far I can go. :)/>
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