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marcotting plants the how to

#1 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 09:28 AM

hey all

anyone here have dabbled with marcotting and with great success?
am trying, but no results yet...
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#2 User is offline   scatterseed 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 09:45 AM

Mamat,

Such a plant expert like you have problems ah? Maybe you are too impatient la...

Depending on plant type, it can take up to 3 months to root. I normally use pure compost as a media and leave them be. Very unsightly I know but it will take after a while. You will see the root through the see-through wrapper. I use Glad wrap.

SS
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#3 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 11:14 AM

hey

am no plant expert, i just grow wat i like, kekeke
and recently i've started marcotting, not sure if hey will take root

i have tried on roses n hibiscus, as many pp1e had asked for cuttings of these 2 p1ants n most times the cuttings failed

there are a few methods how 2 marcot, do share how u do yours
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#4 User is offline   scatterseed 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 11:49 AM

With so many plant experts here, I try not to give 'tips'. I will put down my steps and there are ppl who wants to add or comment on them, pls feel free because this will only increase all our collective knowledge on the topic.

1. Plant must be quite matured, at least 18 months old in a stable environment, ie not moved about.
2. Choose a node spot about 10 inches down from the tip. Remove at least 1.5 inches of the bark, until you see the white layer.
3. At this point, I spray some tap water and dust some rooting hormone.
4. Cover with a layer of sphagnum moss or sterilised compost (microwave) or both in glad wrap/clear plastic. Secure with strings/rubber bands/ wires. I use glad wraps and wires because I think they are easier to work with. Make sure the middle bulging part is firm, fat and thick (about 2 inches in girth), to allow the roots to grow.
5. If the plant is in a sunny spot, I will wrap again with aluminium foil or any dark colored wrapper to protect the roots from the sun rays. I usually leave this step out as my garden is not very sunny.
6. Leave for at least 3 months. If need be, you can remove the outer layer and check to see if the roots are forming but don't touch the plastic layer. The roots will be white and will be visible from the clear plastic.

I don't know of any other methods to marcot. Maybe someone else can comment?

I rooted 2 hibiscus last month with just stem cuttings. They are now growing quite well. Again, there's no sun where I rooted them. Transferring them out to the sun in about 4 weeks. I usually let them rest in the shade to stabilise them. Slowwwww and easyyyyy....

SS
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#5 User is offline   BMB Albert 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 01:08 PM

Hi SS,

Have you experienced 'ant' getting into the marcotted area to built nest and slowly the sph. moss or other media get dried up eventually. What will be the solutions to handle this matter??

Have you tried rooting hoya by marcotting??

Cheers,
BMB Albert
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#6 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 01:23 PM

i dun de-ring the bark/stem a11 ar0und
just ha1f the stem width, then wrap in spagnum

i use the clear p1astic meant to make air batu to tie the spag ard.
might need 2 invest in r00ting h0rmnes - i misp1aced 2 b0tt1es 0f this r00ting h0rm0ne, argh
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#7 User is offline   fluffymutt 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 01:53 PM

View PostMamat, on Aug 21 2009, 11:14 AM, said:

hey

am no plant expert, i just grow wat i like, kekeke
and recently i've started marcotting, not sure if hey will take root

i have tried on roses n hibiscus, as many pp1e had asked for cuttings of these 2 p1ants n most times the cuttings failed

there are a few methods how 2 marcot, do share how u do yours


:offtopic:/> so far i find that for roses and hibiscus green cuttings with the growing tip tend to root better
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#8 User is offline   scatterseed 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 01:54 PM

View PostBMB Albert, on Aug 21 2009, 01:08 PM, said:

Hi SS,

Have you experienced 'ant' getting into the marcotted area to built nest and slowly the sph. moss or other media get dried up eventually. What will be the solutions to handle this matter??

Have you tried rooting hoya by marcotting??

Cheers,
BMB Albert


Not encountered ants before. Dried up, yes. If dried, I loosen the top wire and drip water in but that would be unusual. Wires are easier to handle compared to strings. I use the type for flower arrangements.

Not tried hoya before. Mainly hibiscus and fruit trees for my dad in his garden. I guess it would be the same?

SS
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#9 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 03:23 PM

i juz t0t 0f sumthing

albert, hoyas have natural aerial roots, maybe thats why it roots like tat, using the leaf pullings - the soft n damp media would only encourage roots 2 grow from any point along the length of the hoya stem
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#10 User is offline   BMB Albert 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 03:48 PM

View PostMamat, on Aug 21 2009, 03:23 PM, said:

i juz t0t 0f sumthing

albert, hoyas have natural aerial roots, maybe thats why it roots like tat, using the leaf pullings - the soft n damp media would only encourage roots 2 grow from any point along the length of the hoya stem


Mamat, Yes - initially, I also have that thought that Hoya can be rooted any place of the stem because they have aerial roots - However, from there this idea were tried out on Persian sheild - and it rooted. Not on one spot of the stem but I tried on numerous spot along the stem at one go and all rooted ! I tried on my neem plant and also it was rooted using this method.


Cheers,
BMB Albert
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#11 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 03:56 PM

a1bert, tats gd news

any news 0n the marc0tted r0ses?
i sha11 wai an0ther 2-3 weeks m0re t- see if indeed my marc0ts w0rk
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#12 User is offline   BMB Albert 

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 04:41 PM

View PostMamat, on Aug 21 2009, 03:56 PM, said:

a1bert, tats gd news

any news 0n the marc0tted r0ses?
i sha11 wai an0ther 2-3 weeks m0re t- see if indeed my marc0ts w0rk


Mamat. so far no news on mine, see no roots yet.... Hope yours will root... I am waiting for your rooted rose cuttings... Hehehe!!!

This post has been edited by BMB Albert: 21 August 2009 - 04:41 PM

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#13 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 03:40 AM

hey albert

About my rose marcots, am not really holding my breath.
But I do hope it takes off.. then it would really inspire and give me the boost (not booze) that I need to make more marcots.

I can then marcot more roses and hibiscus..
As we know it, some of my hibiscus stems are kinda difficult to root via cuttings... especially the double reds.

Am keeping my fingers crossed...
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#14 User is offline   BMB Albert 

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 09:55 PM

View PostMamat, on Aug 22 2009, 03:40 AM, said:

hey albert

About my rose marcots, am not really holding my breath.
But I do hope it takes off.. then it would really inspire and give me the boost (not booze) that I need to make more marcots.

I can then marcot more roses and hibiscus..
As we know it, some of my hibiscus stems are kinda difficult to root via cuttings... especially the double reds.

Am keeping my fingers crossed...


Yes, Mamat,

I am in the same boat as you. I am also very anxious to see roots on those roses . Anyway, as long as the rose stem is green and not rotting, I will continue to monitor - maybe rose might take a long time to root. Should you go to JB can check with Dr rose and will know the time taken for roses to take roots.
I will try on the hibiscus tomorrow and will compare notes some time later.....
I am also keeping my fingers crossed as well.....

Cheers,
BMB Albert
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#15 User is offline   sixhunter 

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 02:53 AM

View PostBMB Albert, on Aug 21 2009, 01:08 PM, said:

Hi SS,

Have you experienced 'ant' getting into the marcotted area to built nest and slowly the sph. moss or other media get dried up eventually. What will be the solutions to handle this matter??

Have you tried rooting hoya by marcotting??

Cheers,
BMB Albert


if ur using those clingfilm etc to marcot/layer, ants will think its a nice spot to build nest cos of the moist media. They will nibble their way thru the plastic film and loads will start to fill in. What i experienced personally in tis case when i airlayer quite some time back, my 1st wrap, i spray a thin layer of those insecticide for plants, then wrap another layer over it and spray agn and then another layer. Finally when done, the outsides and nearby the area i also spray abit. So far can tahan up for 6 weeks in my case.

if u wanna play safe, use alu foil and both ends tie tightly, shld work i think. seldom airlayer anymore, now trying to wire tourniquet more, but not sure if it works for hoya n other plants as such as for my case im dealing wit water jasmine n more bonsai related species which tend to hav a hardier stem/trunk.
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#16 User is offline   BMB Albert 

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 04:17 PM

View Postsixhunter, on Aug 23 2009, 02:53 AM, said:

if ur using those clingfilm etc to marcot/layer, ants will think its a nice spot to build nest cos of the moist media. They will nibble their way thru the plastic film and loads will start to fill in. What i experienced personally in tis case when i airlayer quite some time back, my 1st wrap, i spray a thin layer of those insecticide for plants, then wrap another layer over it and spray agn and then another layer. Finally when done, the outsides and nearby the area i also spray abit. So far can tahan up for 6 weeks in my case.

if u wanna play safe, use alu foil and both ends tie tightly, shld work i think. seldom airlayer anymore, now trying to wire tourniquet more, but not sure if it works for hoya n other plants as such as for my case im dealing wit water jasmine n more bonsai related species which tend to hav a hardier stem/trunk.


Thanks sixhunter for sharing ,

Cool idea. I have not thought of this. I will diff. include this step of spraying insecticide should I do my next marcotting. Once the ant do not build nest in the moist media - the media will not dry up so often.....

Cheers,
BMB Albert
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#17 User is offline   bluefly 

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 06:22 PM

View PostMamat, on Aug 21 2009, 01:23 PM, said:

i dun de-ring the bark/stem a11 ar0und
just ha1f the stem width, then wrap in spagnum


Hi! Mamat,

A 100% complete ring cut is critical for marcotting......................bf
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#18 User is offline   sixhunter 

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 08:08 PM

View Postbluefly, on Aug 23 2009, 06:22 PM, said:

Hi! Mamat,

A 100% complete ring cut is critical for marcotting......................bf


it is still possible to marcot witout a 100% ring cuts, there r several "old" methods of different types of cutting off the bark n cambium though n not they're not 100% ring cut off. What mamat might b doing is for semi hardy stems whereby a sharp cut at an angle is being cut into 50% and bridge apart normally by a small little toothpick of even some sphagum moss fibers. I've used tis method b4 on a water jasmine seedling and it rooted after a few weeks. Probably i will post a successful airlayering on nearly 2inch thick water jasmine soon. Although initially the complete ring cut din not strike as it callous over way too fast and it did not manage to root, but i later wire tourniquet it to force it to root. Airlayering/marcotting is like an exciting operation, no 100% gaurantee, and not sure "patient" can make it anot lol :rolleyes:/>
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#19 User is offline   Mamat 

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 12:48 PM

View Postbluefly, on Aug 23 2009, 06:22 PM, said:

Hi! Mamat,

A 100% complete ring cut is critical for marcotting......................bf



Hi Eng Ong

Tks for coming in.


Sixhunter - tks for explaining.. Ya.. INdeed an old method.. but it wont really kill the top portion cos there is still life support to the top portion via the uncut 50% bark.

I was talking exactly about the sticking a matchstick in between, so that the slash wounds wont come together, then moist spag crammed in beteen the cut ends act as the rooting media.

But I know that for my half way round the stem method might not work as food as well as other nutrients can be sent to the top buy via the unbroken bark... and the part where the bark is gone, the plant can simple form a callouse and heal itself. But in another book I read, the wound will absorb food and water thru this broken bark, and the plant, sensing this is a quicker method of drawing nutrients, will develop roots to facilitate on these nutrients uptake.

Anyway.. I'll report in a month's time to see if there are roots formed.
Wish me luck...

This post has been edited by Mamat: 24 August 2009 - 12:53 PM

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#20 User is offline   sixhunter 

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 10:08 PM

alright, the results are out, its been 4months
airlayering success
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