the flask to aerate it for a day. Reason for doing so is to allow
the seedlings to adjust to the external environment before subjecting
them to other shock.
flask to about an inch of water and use the rod to break up the
prefer to wrap the glass flask in sheets of newspaper and
give the flask a swift strike with a hammer to shatter it.
Bear in mind that there would be glass fragments around and
depending on the quality of the glass, some of these fragments
are very fine so do exercise caution when handling them.
flasks are made of plastic, use a good pair of clean kitchen
scissors to cut the narrow part off so the whole chunk of
agar tips out easily
you can swirl the agar and the seedlings with ease within
the flask, tip the contents into a bowl of water.
through the seedlings and rinse off the extra agar.
point, some growers prefer to treat the seedlings with some
protectants such as fungicides (lime), disinfectants (e.g.
1% bleach solution, Physan™ and DettolT™)
I do not think that disinfectants and fungicides are important
at this stage unless one is rescuing the flask from contamination,
then one needs to take the extra step. If there is no contamination,
fungicides are not necessary, as fungal infection usually indicates
poor air circulation or a poor watering regime.
One that may
be essential is an application of a systemic pesticide (warning:
this can also read as nerve poison) for 15 min to allow the seedlings
to absorb it. Seedlings are highly vulnerable to pests especially
if one does not spray pesticides regularly (some times it may
not be possible to spray pesticides due to the home environment).
rinsing and treatment, drain the seedlings.
drain them enough so that there is no more water dripping.
From this point, you will have to work fast to prevent the
seedlings from dehydrating.
one decides to let the seedlings stay wet for a longer period
of time without applying a fungicide, these seedlings will
be prone to rot.
seedlings according to sizes.
those that are rootless and too small to be worth saving.
that are too small and do not have properly developed roots
may continue growing but they will take a much longer time
not only take up time to grow but growing space as well!
to tie the seedlings together. I was told that this method
resembles sushi-making! Lay flat a piece of preferred mounting
substrate and position a seedling on top.
the seedling towards the centre of the substrate as one
cannot tell where the lead will come out from. Unless there
is a lead already forming, align it in such a way that there
is space for the lead to grow.
top of the seedling should protrude out of the substrate
and the root-growing area should be about 1/3 from the top
of the substrate.
way, the seedling will eventually grow to the top or near
the top of the substrate, making it easier to mount or pot
up the seedling.
seedlings are big, you can tie them individually but if
they are small, then you can consider mounting them in pairs.
the top of the seedling with just enough sphagnum moss.
much is just enough? - Just enough to cover the roots and
the bottom part of the rooting area. Any more than sufficient,
the seedling may have basal rot and anything less would
cause desiccation. The former rarely happens as sphagnum
moss has fungicidal properties.
the seedling with your preferred tying material three rounds
and tie a dead knot.Then snip
off the excess tying material with a sharp pair of scissors
to give the
One can gather
up all the tied seedlings and place them in a more permanent growing
environment, such as a plastic basket.
tied seedlings are placed at the front of this basket and I usually
just place them in whatever space I have, but bear in mind
their light requirements - for the majority of Dendrobium subgenus
Spathulata (which includes D. carronii), they require
high light. Here I have placed the seedlings together with seedlings
of Cattleya violacea var tipo 'Rosa de Luis'.
the seedlings in the tray placed in a permanent growing area and
carry on with your regular watering and fertilizing regime. From
experience, I do not find anything unusual by giving these seedlings
regular adult plant treatment in terms of watering and fertilizing
(foliar feeding) but the humidity level has to be high as these
seedlings have not well-developed roots.
If there happened
to be any die-offs, be it rot or desiccation, remove and discard
that seedling with its mount. This is common with the smaller
seedlings which are more venerable to rot and desiccation due
to slower root development
1 - 2 growth cycles (depending on maturity of the seedlings
when unflasked), each lasting between 3-6 months, the seedlings
would be big enough to be mounted or potted up individually.
the roots of the seedlings are growing so well that they
grew through the fernroot.
is normally preferred as it enables better air circulation
though out the plant and its roots and it dries out easier.
PLANTS ON MOUNTS
Below are two
examples of adult D. carronii that are grown on mounts.
is one of our dedicated moderators of the Green Culture Singapore
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is a member of numerous world-reowned discussion forums for orchids,
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